It got E36 M3 MPG in the city (10 was common) but did okay on the highway (14 towing, 19ish unloaded).Īwesome! I really appreciate actual first hand knowledge. I towed the M3 with it, took it off-road a few times, and drove it daily to work and on road trips. Bought at 94k and sold at 105k, only because I needed a beefier truck to tow my new-to-me enclosed. I put 10k miles on mine in six months and it didn't go through anything weird in that time. I had all the records from mine, and it never needed much from what I could tell. ![]() The 5.0s can occasionally eat water pumps but they are not a strict 100k maintenance item like some BMWs can be. front lower control arms are a wear item (bushings) so if you test drive one and hear it clunking around up front, that's what it likely is. They will eat tires and brakes as a result. You cannot easily fit less than a 20" wheel to those models because of the caliper and rotor size. Mine had the Logic7 sound system which kicked some serious ass.Ģ010-2012 S/C models have Brembo brakes with six-piston fronts. The infotainment in all of them is pretty basic. The 2010+ have a full digital gauge cluster, which is cool but kind of useless, as it just replicates round dials that you'd see anyway. You can trick it into giving you a few more inches of clearance off-road, too. They do not seem to fail at the alarming rate of earlier LRs, and the best way to keep the airbags healthy is to cycle the ride height every so often. Arnott and Suncore make aftermarket shocks/struts/whatever so you don't have to deal with OEM pricing if one fails. Speaking of suspension, the air ride is not super scary to deal with. The chassis is too small once you move to even a small enclosed (mine is a 20' aluminum) - not enough wheelbase combined with soft suspension was not a fun time. I towed my racecar with mine, and it was very happy to tow things on an open trailer. They are pre-wired for a 7-pin tow harness but you have to buy the stupid $100 part and install the connector. They all have Bosch electronics and a lot of FoMoCo stamped on parts. ![]() My 2010 had 105k miles on original guides, though, and I was never too worried. The safest way to avoid that is to buy a 2012, as the 10s and early 11s were what was affected. Long-specified oil change intervals lead to the plastic guides breaking down and then you're in for a big bill. It's direct injected, and can have timing chain guide issues. ![]() It is NOT a Ford Coyote, but was developed using Ford money. The 2010-2012 have the Jag 5.0L in both N/A and SC form. The 06s are known for being pretty crap compared to 07-12.Ģ007-2009 are the most reliable option, they run the Jag 4.4L (if N/A) or Jag 4.2L (if Supercharged). Avoid the 2006 models, which is what Doug DeMuro had and mislead people on. The 元22 is a BMW design that was more or less built by Ford. These fees and commissions do not influence the amount a customer pays.Nobody knows anything about them, generally. Auto Trader receives a fee from retailers advertising finance and may receive a commission from commercial partners for introducing customers to finance products. Representative finance examples are for illustrative purposes only. Auto Trader Limited is a credit broker and not a lender.
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